Alpine Ethos #3: The Future Colorado Springs Ice Climbing Park.

The best possible bang-for-the-buck impact on our local winter economy.

Back in the early 2000’s, I was fresh out of the Army and starting college. I scraped together a few bucks, bought a discounted pair of Scarpa boots and two mismatched straight-shaft tools from a clearance rack, and headed up to Silver Cascade. My little 92 Nissan pickup only had rear wheel drive, so I had to drive it like I stole it to get up the steep grade. Ranger Ron happened to be suiting up in the parking lot and offered to let me coast behind him for a few laps. I noticed on the hike that he didn’t have a rope. My plan was to just boulder around at the base, but when he launched up the first pitch mid-conversation, I tagged along.

Connor Maloney cruisin’ fresh ice in the 719

That year, someone had stretched a garden hose around the upper slab to spread the flow and cover every visible square inch of granite. You could easily link up a second pitch to the top, then run back to the base and climb an entirely different line to the top, then do it again. It was the perfect time to be a beginner. I spent several nights a week, speeding up after class to run half a dozen solo laps on the forgiving flows. Eventually, the city got word of the tinkering and cut it all down. Honestly, I don’t think local ice climbers from that era have truly gotten over the disappointment. I’ve had the fortune since then to climb plenty of classic ice routes, and I credit that season to putting me on the fast track to climbing confidently in bigger terrain. 

I’ve been known to lean a little too far in front of my crampons, but hear me out. Over the last year, numerous news articles have detailed the achievements of our local Pikes Peak Outdoor Recreation Alliance in securing large grants ($$$) and attracting attention from people with considerable clout, including business leaders and our own Governor Polis. This movement in the right direction comes from years of hard work by dedicated individuals who see the potential of our natural local resources to boost the local economy and improve the standard of living for our local population.

Most of these funds will go towards boosting outdoor activities geared towards the warmer months. Think camping, hiking, mountain biking, etc. We all participate in these activities, and they will absolutely help our local outfitters and guides. Big win, for sure, and I totally support that. However, our summer tourism capacity is already nearing its limit, while in winter many restaurants, hotels, and guide services operate on skeleton staffs.

A nearby ice climbing park could change that. The overwhelming majority of ice climbers in Colorado live on the Front Range, in cities like Denver, Fort Collins, Boulder, and Colorado Springs— none of which have an ice park. And every winter, those climbers make the 5 to 8-hour drive to Ouray and Lake City. Ouray alone sees 25,000 visitors to its ice park every season. That led to $17.8 million in local spending for the 21-22 winter. I hate to say this, but their low elevation points to a coming expiration date as our winters warm.

Unlike other sports, the investment in an ice park could be minimal. Especially compared to the cost of campgrounds or extended trail networks, those other projects require. The cost of hoses and PVC piping pales in comparison. While water needs are always an issue in the arid west, ice melts every spring and returns to the same drainage from which it came. As for man-hours, we have a motivated climbing community ready to volunteer. We also have a very ambitious board at our local climbers’ alliance that would jump at the chance to raise funds and pitch in to get it done.

Here are just a few of the options for a local venue:

PIKES PEAK HIGHWAY

PROS- The first option is near and dear to my own heart, so I’ll admit my own bias. This spot has numerous advantages. The road winds up the north face of the mountain, providing shaded slopes in winter. The road is nearly always plowed to Glen Cove, at 11,500 feet, where ample parking and close crags could provide the structure to hold ice flows. This altitude all but ensures that temps will cooperate for ice-making, and that it will have the longest ice season of any ice park in the country. Think months, not weeks. A lazy creek meanders behind the gift shop that perhaps could provide water, though it would need to be supplemented from existing taps. Other crags can be found lower on the mountain, such as the top of Cascade Canyon, found near mile 2. The highway is a ghost town in winter, so the increased winter traffic (customers) should help keep the friendly rangers paid and happy.

CON- The obvious downside is the toll road fee, but that cost is more than offset by the gas savings from not having to drive across the state. 

HULLY GULLY, OLD STAGE ROAD

PROS- “The Gully” is a well-known area for ice and mixed climbers. It is close to town, and the approach is not difficult. Currently, there is not enough water to spread out from the main flow, so it would have to be supplemented. Fortunately, there is a 4-inch water main next to the road, carrying water from reservoirs above. It is conveniently situated above the crag. A plus for this location is the height of the walls. Numerous two-pitch routes could be developed from the top of the formation.

CON- Low elevation. There are years when it is too warm for any ice to form consistently.

CHEYENNE CANYON

PROS- The Canyon is a beloved jewel of the city. Most of us learned to ice climb on the gentle and forgiving Silver Cascade. An easy way to expand ice climbing in the park is to divert water onto the upper slab and add a pitch. This would spread out climbers and add a more diverse climbing experience. Other cliffs along the road could also be farmed using the existing creek water flow. Of course, city parks and CS utilities would have to sign off on this one, perhaps with a bit of pressure from business and city leaders that could happen.

CON- red tape and low altitude.

VICTOR, COLORADO

PROS- Victor sits at a lofty 10,000 feet. I really like the idea of finding a small town in the mountains that could use some love. Victor is a beautiful place with great people. A local ice park could fill their hotels, Airbnbs, and restaurants in the quiet months, possibly transforming their local economy. Local reservoirs provide the water, but they would need to find a steep cliff or perhaps utilize the abandoned mining scaffolding surrounding the town. Midwestern towns have farmed ice on silos. Just an idea. Of course, the town itself would need to decide whether it wants the traffic, and no one should try to force it on them. 

CON- lack of a specific location

ELEVENMILE CANYON

PROS- Sitting at over 8,000 feet, and an hour’s drive to the west, this beautiful canyon stands as a strong candidate. Front Range Climbing Company already operates a small farmed ice area on Boy Scout property nearby, which speaks to the area's feasibility. The canyon provides readily available water and endless cliffs to choose from. The road through the main canyon is maintained all winter, and parking lots and trails have already been built.

CON- the road has a toll.

THE HURDLES

Of course, there will be issues. Environmental impact studies would be necessary on most public lands. Liability waivers will have to be drafted and vetted by lawyers. Water rights and legalities and red tape and public discourse… But, some things are worth the hassle. And, an economic incentive often moves the needle in those circumstances.

THE INEVITABLE DISCLAIMER

I’ll end by reminding the reader that this is just one person’s optimistic opinion, so forgive me if this sounds audacious. However, I won’t apologize for pushing to make the 719 community a happier place to live and play. Towns like Ouray and Lake City overcame numerous hurdles to make their “crazy” ideas work, and the results were transformative for their local economies. Their ice parks pumped dollars into local infrastructure and schools, paid mortgages, and also provided a launching pad for adventure that climbers flocked to from all over the country. This is our chance to make the Springs a serious winter adventure destination. Or, we can wait until some other front-range city gets wise and beats us to the punch.

Please forward to a friend if you agree!